黄媛：《西班牙传教士文献所见明代潮汕妇女服饰》，《文化遗产》2020年第3期。

【内容摘要】1625年2月，前往澳门调停经济争端的西班牙耶稣会士阿德里亚诺·德·拉斯·科尔特斯(Adriano de las Cortes)沉船至潮汕地区，成功获救后返回马尼拉，并以《中国纪行》(Viaje de la China)记录见闻经历。得益于科尔特斯"身兼多职"的立体感知、服饰自身的直观表征，再加上本土画家与西方绘画技法的结合，《中国纪行》用具有中国特征的笔触最大程度生动而真实地绘制了明代潮汕地区“文公帕”“潮屐”“翘鞋”等妇女服饰，补全其历史链环，提供图画佐证，拆解本土记录的意义叠加，体现明代潮汕妇女服饰的丰富性，进一步展现了明末礼教束缚渐宽与民族融合背景下，潮汕地区具有生气的各阶层女性群像与服饰演变。

【关键词】潮汕； 中国纪行； 妇女； 服饰民俗

A Discovery in Teochew Women’s Clothing of Ming Dynasty According to the Spanish Jesuit’s Record

Huang Yuan

Abstract: The Spanish Jesuit Adriano de las Cortes went to Macao as a moderator, but his ship was wrecked in the Chaozhou-Shantou area in February 1625. After the rescue, he returned to Manila and wrote his experience in Viaje de la China. Viaje de la China is also considered as the new material for the research on Teochew women’s clothing in the Ming Dynasty.The author had chosen some pictures of Teochew women’s clothing such as “Wen Gong Pa” “Teochew Clogs” and “Qiao Xie” to discuss so as to discover the value of the Viaje de la China, through various of clothing illustrations in the book.

Keywords: the Chaozhou-Shantou area, Viaje de la China, women, costume-custom